Categories: denmark, postcards
Date: 11 September 2008 14:56:52
At the end of the 19th century a group of artists made Skagen their summer residence. This was mainly on account of the unique light conditions up there. The artists painted local scenes so the main themes are fishermen, boats, beaches, etc. Although the Danish impressionists' works are perhaps not as world famous as those of the French impressionists, there are perhaps a few which gentle readers would recognise without perhaps having remembered the artists' names. A few more well-known images are of ladies in Edwardian dresses strolling on the beach. The main members of the group were Michael Ancher, Anna Ancher, P.S. Krøyer (a Swede, I think), Lauritz Tuxen and Holger Drachmann. There are many of their works in Skagens Museum - which is celebrating its centenary this year. Being a lifelong fan of the French impressionists, and only acquainted with the Danish ones from prints in books, it was delightful to see some of the canvases in “real life” and to be introduced to some new paintings.
The town allows visitors to gain an impression of the painters' daily lives as a couple of their homes are now museums. I visited the Michael & Anna Anchers Hus and the Drachmanns Hus which were piled high with canvases and sketches as well as all the usual paraphernalia of daily life. I confess I had not heard of Drachmann before going to Skagen and learned that over his lifetime he had 3 wives and numerous children. His last house (i.e. the one in Skagen) was relatively small and had just one bedroom so one assumes that his children lived with their mothers as there wasn't a lot of room to accommodate a growing family. The exterior of this house, by the way, was painted white (not yellow) and had green woodwork. I was not overly keen on Drachmann's paintings in his house but found when I went to the museum later that my eye was drawn to particular works - which more often than not were by him. I wonder if they were enhanced by the setting or just that they were better examples? An excuse to go back again and conduct a scientific comparison! Drachmann's grave, by the way, is in one of the sand dunes at Grenen.
At the Anchers Hus, visitors were required to wear soft overshoes. As we were all padding around on polished floors, I wondered if anyone would slip and crash into some precious piece of furniture (Please do not touch - in Danish, German and English) or if this was a cunning plan by the authorities to cut down on their cleaning bills. I only saw one bedroom at this house, too - but think there must have been more in areas restricted to visitors. Anna's studio was very impressive - flooded with light - and large (and full of her paintings).
In Saxilds Gaard, an annex to the Anchers Hus, was an exhibition of sketches. These did not capture my imagination but I can recommend the macaroons in the little café in the grounds of the two museums!