Davit Gareji
Categories: orthodox-life, holidays, monasticism, georgia, lives-of-saints, spiritual-journey
Date: 26 July 2009 09:14:48
Founded by St Davit [one of the thirteen Assyrian Fathers who travelled to Georgia in the 6th century], with his disciples Ss Dodo and Lukiane, the Davit Gareji monastery complex [click here for a map of all the monasteries: we visited Lavra and Udabno] was, for me, one of the most moving parts of the tour of Georgia -- and the monastery that moved me the most; particularly the Monastery of Udabano which is a cave complex, reachable by a steep walk up the mountain from the main monastery [Lavra]. I have plenty of churches and monasteries to bore you with still, but for me Davit Gareji needs its own post.
I have always been drawn to Syriac Saints -- their writings, whether prose or poetry, bring a unique perspective on Biblical texts and Salvation History given the strong use of types and symbols: something that truly does speak deeply to me and help me understand God's Plan for our Salvation. [And thanks be to God for the many beloved Assyrian friends I have, and one in particular, Deacon Anthony, who have provided me with new names and new works constantly for my reading and digesting.] The 13 Assyrian [often referred to as Syrian] Fathers were encountered a great many times on my travels with the group: they founded a great many churches and monasteries still in existence today. The lives and sayings of the Desert Fathers also hold great affection in my heart. As does monasticism in general: and the idea of withdrawing from the world to hard and inaccessible places to do battle with oneself and one's passions, whether as a stylite, one living solitary in a cave or dwelling, or one living in community within a monastery. The lives of these Saints of the Church, canonised or not, has always had a pull on me -- their example in their actions, life and dedication speaks strongly to me and spurs me on in the pursuit of conquering the passions and the journey of theosis [to me, the purpose, and the giver of joy as much as struggles, of the Christian life].
So: with a complex founded by Syriacs, a 'desert' environment and a monastic life in cells on the face of a mountain, the stage was set for this to be a humbling and moving experience for me -- and it was: far more than I expected.
The main monastery of the complex, the Lavra, is active today which is wonderful to see. It is also a very popular place for pilgrims and tourists. Though in a relative stark surrounds, though recent rains brought colour and life, the monastery's courtyard is a beautiful place, with grass and several large trees providing shade from the heat -- and a pomegranate tree. On the hill above, water is caught and channelled down rocks and food is grown. The tombs of Ss Davit, Dodo and Lukiane are in the Church of the Transfiguration, and it was a blessing and privilege to pray at their tombs, asking for their prayers. Although separated by time, and death, we are one and in communion through Christ.
After a quick look at the Lavra, it was up the mountain, via a steep hike, to the Udabno Monastery Cave Complex. Udabno was home, from the 9th to 13th centuries, to one of Georgia's most important schools of painting: and, thanks be to God, icons and artwork from those times can still be seen today. Seeing and contemplating these was a wondrous blessing, but even the simple act of walking the path along the side of the mountain had me pondering on, and praying for [though they are long gone from this earthly pilgrimage I am a believer in prayer transcending time: and can think of no better response to the sight of this monastery] all those who had made this their home. From the sheer number of cells, whether plain [and defaced] or ornate, to the refectory with its stunning icons including one of the Last Supper, all cut into the rock, each moment was a blessing. I also spent time looking across the barren landscape towards Azerbaijan and pondering the monks of times past who also took in this view.
In one sense, the Udabno Monastery Cave Complex had a feeling of a 'museum' as the caves are currently not populated: otherwise we could not just walk into them. Active monasteries or convents are always special in that the tradition of monasticism is continuing and alive. That said, in a greater sense, it was most definitely an inspiring experience: to stand where Saints had stood; to walk where they had walked; to see a cave complex monastery for the first time in my life -- all spiritually challenging and blessed experiences. It is my prayer that places such as these may once again, as I saw constantly in Georgia, flourish as active monastic centres, or, if these cannot, that, again as I saw in many places in Georgia, new monasteries will be built as people embrace the monastic life. In Eastern Orthodox thought, the state of the Church is often seen as reflected in the state of the monasteries -- healthy, active and spiritual monasteries lead, through their very presence and the prayers and spiritual guidance of the monks/nun within, to a healthy, active and spiritual Church.
Pondering my feelings and thoughts at Davit Gareji at a distance in time [a month later] and space [from Australia], and also considering the many conversations on my experiences and my thoughts I have had since my visit there [truly I see God's Hand in this], the thought [or better, dream?] I have had on and off [off as I kept thinking it was a foolish thought and idea -- and one I could not do] has returned. And I have made the decision to keep this desire, this dream, alive, and to take steps, however small at first, to work towards it. What is the dream? -- visiting Balamand Monastery and considering some theological study at the University of Balamand in Lebanon. By this I mean no slight on Georgia, for I would love to return there, and particularly return to stay at several of the monasteries we visited [Davit Gareji Lavra being foremost on that list]. But, for reasons unknown, I feel a pull towards the Middle East, and Lebanon in particular. And the thought of going for a year to see how I go, and staying if I do, returning here [or somewhere else] if I do not, does not now seem foolish; does not now seem unreachable; does not now seem like something I should not do -- the "calling", for want of a better word, seems stronger and stronger. And I truly believe that the half-day spent at Davit Gareji, and the emotions, feelings and inspiration raised within me there, began the process that led to this. Thanks and praise be to God.
Through the prayers of our Holy Father St Davit of Gareji and the other 12 Syrian Fathers, may the Lord have mercy on us and save us.
O God-fearing and thrice-venerable Syrian Fathers, lift up your holy hands to the heavenly King and pray that He grant peace to our nation, safety to all Christian people, and great mercy to all those who call upon His name!