Tbilisi - First Impressions
Date: 16 July 2009 13:48:19
Whereas Istanbul [which I have updated with more links to photos] had a mosque [seemingly] on every corner, Tbilisi had a church -- or perhaps 3. It was quite amazing to walk around and see so many churches so close together. Getting ahead of first impressions, but on Sunday, when we did a "church crawl", to see each church [some small; some large] filled to overflowing, people standing shoulder-to-shoulder inside, people listening, praying, via speaker outside, it was exceptionally moving. I do not believe in "Christian countries" [for I believe States cannot be Christian, only people can -- please disagree if you feel I am wrong: always happy to be challenged], but the mood in Tbilisi, particularly on Saturday night [Vespers], Sunday or before a Feast Day [as it was on my last day], made me realise how deep a role Christianity, supressed under the Soviets, plays in the life of many Georgians, and how Christianity is being rebuilt and revitalised in the repair, reconstruction and building of churches, convents and monasteries -- but also, most joyfully to me as I saw it, in the lives of people. But that is for a later date.
In my view a rather "dirty" coloured river [is it due to its source in the mountains?], the Mtkvari, runs through Tbilisi: but despite its odd colour its prominence from wherever you may be, particularly if you go climbing hills, and its division of the city into the original settlement and later developments means it was always a lovely sight to see. Staying in a hotel just behind the Metekhi Church, I crossed it most days many times. If you enlarge the photo on right, you can see the Narikala Fortress and re-built Church of St George, high above Tbilisi. Another fine sight to see each day.
Kartlis Deda, or Mother Georgia, high on the same hill as the fortress is also fairly hard to miss. A clearly Soviet creation, she holds sword in one hand for enemies and wine in the other for friends. Many fascinating and beautiful monuments, from the grand [Freedom Monument] to the simple and everyday [a man lighting a street lamp].
Wide streets, with ornate buildings, and the occasional 'functional' Soviet one, were a joy to walk down: they were often crowded with people going about their daily business, and also with many street vendors selling everything from second-hand books to icons to fruit to paintings to socks. Even on the many underpasses [saves pedestrian signals!], street vendors were selling their wares. And many tunnels seemed to have been shortened so that shops could be placed there. All so foreign to me: yet so utterly fascinating. There were a large number of people begging, which jolted me [particularly when I'd had a large meal or bought some icons and came out with no change -- feeling rather guilty at my relative wealth]. Lord, have mercy. Also while walking along the streets it was clear that, as in Istanbul, car horns were used with far more regularlity than here in Australia: it appeared compulsory to toot it at least every minute or so I thought.
The Old Town part of Tbilisi was a joy to wander around. People living in houses and apartments that, to be honest, in many instances had seen better days [but Georgia has been, and is going, through a great deal: and is still coming out of some dark years as I saw it], and me seeing the residents go about their everyday life: adults talking, children playing, people singing out to me, "Tourist?", from their balcony and engaging me in a "conversation" [via gestures and signs given the language barrier -- but it is amazing how much can be communicated that way]... Walking past the Sulphur Baths; through the Armenian, Jewish and Muslim quarters, past the sole remaining Mosque in the city, an Armenian Church and the Great Synagogue; and church upon church upon church [Jvaris-Mama having a fascinating baptistry and my new favourite icon of St George. Wandering the streets was simply superb. At any hour.
At night [and apologies: the best photo I had] the city lit up like none I know. Yes, we have office buildings and famous landmarks like the Opera House and Harbour Bridge here , but in a city where, on a hill somewhere, the prominent buildings stood out, gleaming in their radiant colours, it was a joy to behold. You'll have to tilt your head 90 degrees, and it is poor quality, but even the TV tower, high on a hill, lit up in a multitude of changing colours throughout the night. I wondered at the electricity cost, but also just stood amazed.
Such a different city to Istanbul: yet as equally captivating. I had a suspicion Georgia would be special: but no realisation the impact it would have on me.